Of the minimal achromatic scheme, Halston believed his guests should help to color the space-perhaps in one of his batik caftans? The pièce de résistance of the room was a floating staircase that led upstairs to the bedrooms (one of which was the site of Brigitte Bardot’s honeymoon). The four-bedroom home was furnished with spartan restraint Halston covered the floors with a gray velvet carpeting he developed with the company Karastan, and sprinkled in gray flannel seating that seemed to hover above the floor. Built by the Brutalist-leaning concrete proponent Paul Rudolph, the townhouse was as novel as Halston’s Ultrasuede shirtwaist dress. In the miniseries, we see Halston move from a well-appointed apartment in the Upper East Side into an architectural marvel of a townhouse on Manhattan’s East 63rd Street. “He was a tremendous inspiration throughout my career, and it was a treat-a thrill-just to carry forward his legacy through Netflix and capture the moment.” As we wait for the collection to arrive, browse a few Halston pieces that embrace the disco-essence of their predecessors, below. “It was a very special project because he was always very influential to me,” Rodriguez says of Halston. One of the dresses, a floaty red chiffon gown, is pictured above. Per Rodriguez, it features batik textiles, pleated and shimmering fabrics, and a caftan with a bodysuit underneath. Next month, at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus, the Halston x Netflix collection will drop. So we picked about 10 different looks that were featured, and I reinterpreted those looks for the modern-day.” “Jeriana San Juan showed me what Elsa Peretti was wearing and what Liza Minelli was wearing. “They sent me a deck of vintage styles from Halston that they were featuring in the series,” says Rodriguez. One collection in, Rodriguez and his team were made aware of Netflix’s forthcoming miniseries directed by Daniel Minahan, and it was at once decided that a celebratory collection was in order. In January of 2020, Halston announced Robert Rodriguez as its new creative director. She trawled the vintage troves on 1stDibs and at vintage shows, finding a pair of suede shorts that were just made for Dilone (who plays Pat Cleveland) and a very rare Elsa Peretti belt at the annual Manhattan Vintage Clothing Show. “I’ve never been on set as much and as often as I was on Halston because I was also dressing every mannequin in the background!” she says. San Juan scoured the internet daily for vintage Halston and Halston-era pieces to dress the entire cast, especially in the models’ off-duty looks. The easiest way to costume a ’70s-era show? Vintage, of course. I wanted to have an opportunity for the camera to capture fabric moving closer to the face, which I think really paid off and created elegance and grace and movement.”
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(San Juan’s sketches from the scene are pictured above.) “I knew we wanted to see fabric consume the stage.
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“I really did try to emulate some of Halston’s silhouettes that he was showing at Versailles, but I did take a creative license on color, some fabrications, and I also added capes to a bunch of dresses,” she says. All one needed was a dab of Halston fragrance on her neck, an Ultrasuede shirtdress, and an in at Studio 54.įor the fashion-history-making Battle of Versailles, San Juan explains how she infused her designs with a cinematic touch.
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Through a series of licensing deals and his career-long devotion to wearability, the high-flying Halston lifestyle became something many American women could experience the look was as discerning as it was welcoming. The adornment was little, but there was character in Halston’s swirling batik treatments or the aquatic glisten of an uncolored sequin paillette. His disco-goddess gowns rarely featured anything they didn’t need a no-frills aesthetic allowed shapes (of the clothes but also the women beneath) to command attention.
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Like his beloved orchids, Halston’s work was sumptuously minimal.
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Throughout the show, we see his atelier, workspace, and townhouse teeming with the tropical flower-a sign of the man’s staunch dedication to living in luxury. In the scene, Halston is being chastised for his careless spending, and someone has suggested he give up his orchid habit. “They’re part of my design process!” Ewan McGregor retorts as Halston in Netflix’s latest miniseries on the rise–and fall-of the American fashion designer.